
I camp in the upper story shrine room of the Pazhi lhakhang. The air is heavy with incense and the hall is filled with butter lamps, prayer wheels and stacks of sacred wood-block texts. The ornately carved and painted altar holds gilded vessels and bronze statues. Images of the Buddha, Guru rinpoche, Shabdrung and bodhisattvas surround me, many in union with divine consorts – skywalking dakinis who protect and serve the Dharma.