Walking down Norzin Lam in Thimphu, I see Tshering Dolkar, the woman born on the trail to Kailash standing in front of Haridar Takur’s barber shop talking to a monk.
“Kuzuzangpo, Kuzuzangpo, come have tea la.” She takes my hand and leads me across the street and into her shop. We go to the back of the store where Granny Lhanzom sits spinning her prayer wheel. I fold my hands, say “Kuzuzangpola” and bow to Granny, who doesn’t see well through her thick glasses.
“How are you? When did you come to Bhutan la?” Tshering asks, seating me at a little table and pouring buttered tea.