Our headlights pierce the heavy rain and we see smoke seeping through the woven walls of a tin roofed bamboo hut. Wangchu and I have arrived at the Kencho Hotel where the motor-road ends and the horse trail to Gasa begins.
A young Sharchop woman greets us at the door. Inside two men sit at a rough table glaring at each other over their beer bottles. As we make to join them, I tell Wangchu to buy a round for the men and ask them about their disagreement. The old man smiles and the men begin to recount their discussion, starting the disagreement all over again.