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Pakistan Revisited – Part 4. Hunza

In 1973 I was arrested while trying to cross the border from Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor over the Irshad Pass to the Wakhi valley of Chipursan in upper Hunza, Pakistan. After being released from prison, thanks to the coup d'état that deposed King Mohammad Zahir Shah and helped establish the Republic of Afghanistan, I failed a second attempt to enter Chipursan while traveling through the tribal territories of Northwest Pakistan.

It wasn't until 50 years and a few months had passed before I finally reached my destination in upper Hunza and the fabled valley of the Wakhi, a semi-nomadic highland people of yak herders and farmers who follow the Isma'ili branch of Shia Islam and its leader, or Imam, the Aga Khan

Following are the photos from this recent journey in 2023. Unlike the previous chapters, you will see many photos of women. Among the Isma'ili, women are educated, independent and unveiled, and encouraged to participate in all social and political affairs.

 

Karimabad, Hunza

Karimabad, Capital of Hunza, with Nagar across the valley, 2023

 

Rakaposhi Peak, Nagar, 2023

Rakaposhi Peak, Nagar, 2023. This is the only mountain on earth that descends directly and without interruption for almost 6,000 meters (19,700 feet) from summit to base.

 

Spantic, Hunza, and Passu Peaks, Karimabad
Spantic, Hunza, and Passu Peaks, Karimabad

 

John Wehrheim photographs the three peaks, Karimabad, 2023
John Wehrheim photographs the three peaks, Karimabad, 2023

 

Chaikhana or tea house next to Khunjerav Mosque, 2023

A more than 400-year-old chaikhana or tea house next to the Khunjerav Mosque on our way to Chipursan Valley, 2023.

 

John Wehrheim photographs the Passu Cones, 2023
John Wehrheim photographs the Passu Cones, 2023

 

Passu Cones, Upper Hunza, 2023
Passu Cones, Upper Hunza, 2023

 

The road to Chipursan Valley, 2023
The road to Chipursan Valley, Hunza, 2023

 

Chipursan Road Repair, 2023
Chipursan Road Repair, 2023

 

Chipursan Canyonlands, 2023
Chipursan Canyonlands, 2023

 

John Wehrheim, Chipursan Valley, 2023

John Wehrheim, Chipursan Valley, 2023. The mountains in the background mark the Afghan border.

 

Hassan rides, Chipursan, 2023
Hassan rides, Chipursan, 2023

 

Hassan's mother harvests potatoes, 2023

Hassan's mother harvests potatoes, 2023. The Wakhi of Chipursan are prosperous, self-sufficient farmers in grain, potatoes, vegetables, meat and dairy, with a profitable export  market for disease free seed potatoes. All of their potato fields are at over 10,000 feet in altitude, in a high desert where extreme winter temperatures kill soil borne pathogens and pests.

 

Hassan's grandmother harvests barley, 2023
Hassan's grandmother harvests barley, 2023

 

Three generations of a Wakhi family, 2023
Three generations of a Wakhi family, 2023

 

Wakhi mother, daughter and father, 2023
Wakhi mother, daughter and father, 2023

 

Wakhi girl, 2023
Wakhi girl, 2023

 

Wakhi mother and son, 2023
Wakhi mother and son, 2023

 

Forcaan rides, 2023
Forcaan rides, 2023. Forcaan is the son of my dear friend Dider Ali from Hunza, and runs an excellent experiential travel company for Pakistan: Silk Route Expeditions. He was a fantastic companion throughout my Hunza travels and a very talented photographer (the photos of me are all by his hand).

 

Forcaan at the Dragon Saint’s Guest house, 2023
Forcaan at the Dragon Saint’s Guest house, 2023

 

Chipursan Valley sunset with cow, 2023

Chipursan Valley sunset with cow, 2023

3 comments

  • Such beautiful people and country. Great narration. Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful adventures with all of your many friends. Safe travels dear friend.

    Robin Nohea David
  • Such beautiful people and country. Great narration. Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful adventures with all of your many friends. Safe travels dear friend.

    Robin Nohea David
  • Salomo Alikum,
    Appreciate your traveling and sharing it here, Gojal is the Historical Name, as you Narrated upper Hunza.

    Baig Ali

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